A mysterious slice of prime real estate sits near the corner of Stone Oak Parkway and Loop 1604. For the past 16 years, almost 10,000 square feet of commercial space has buried the culinary aspirations of tenant after tenant.
Frida Mexican Restaurant & Bar, the most recent occupant, shuttered after four years in Stone Oak Plaza. CoCo Bongo, its predecessor, lasted a year. Before that, Buckles & Buns, Drew’s American Grill and Watermark Grill folded after short runs.
The most successful tenant, Reggiano’s, closed in 2009 after a memorable 10-year adventure in upscale 78258.
On top of this graveyard of restaurants comes Katerina, a modern American concept with bold ambition: to thrive where many have failed.
“We have expanded the dining space by 30%,” said Katerina co-owner Dick Jones, who plans a soft opening in late January. “We’ve brought in top notch chefs, a high-end management team and have completely redesigned the interior.”
Jones holds warm memories of Reggiano’s, the former Italian nightspot turned singles bar. He dined on the patio and imbibed at the bar. He also remembers the concepts that followed: American. Tex-Mex. Sports bar. Seafood. Mexican.
“Every time I walked in there after Reggiano’s closed, I still saw Reggiano’s,” Jones said. “Nobody changed the finish out. They just moved new furniture in and never created the atmosphere that Reggiano’s had.”
He believes his design and leadership team will stir nostalgic echoes and create new vibes.
“We are driven to bring back the atmosphere that existed with Reggiano’s,” Jones said. “I am part of the community that loved Reggiano’s and I want to recapture the energy of that iconic location.”
The mission begins at the grill. Chef Greg Carter has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens with Joel Robuchon, Bobby Flay, Thomas Keller and José Andrés. Justin Manzi is a Culinary Institute of America-trained chef in New York with experience at The Oceanaire Seafood Room, Morton’s Steakhouse and Pig & Prince Modern Gastro Pub.
“The quality of chefs we have is outstanding,” Jones said. “Their background and abilities are just spectacular. I know because I’ve gained five pounds since I met them.”
A scratch kitchen will feature woodfire steaks and rustic style pizza.
“We’re making our own breads, butchering our own meats, making our own pasta,” Carter said.
The menu includes a range of starters, from wood-roasted Wagyu meatballs to chili crunch calamari, and entrees, such as coriander crusted duck breast, a double cut pork chop and parisienne gnocchi.
Jones and co-owner Katerina Akimova, for whom the restaurant is named, bring virtually zero experience to the venture. That does not concern them.
“I’m an investor,” said Jones, a former accountant with Ernst & Young. “Katerina and I believe the best way to run a business is to get really good people, empower them and get out of their way.”
In short, the owners will delegate. Director of operations Michael Conway, general manager Geoffrey Smith and assistant general manager Emily Dragija will lead.
Conway previously worked at Wildfish, Eilan Hotel & Spa and J-Prime Steakhouse. Smith spent more than a decade at Cover 3. Dragija worked at since-closed Trudy’s Texas Star in Austin and Cover 3.
Reinventing a once-treasured space excites Smith. The design team has removed a wall, expanded seating and added an outdoor patio bar. Management believes accomplished culinarians will keep the place buzzing.
“Chefs Greg and Justin have a passion for the industry,” Smith said, “and what is possible for a restaurant that has the food, the service, the ambience — all the ingredients to be great.”
Jones and his team are building a new experience in Stone Oak, a place where they say “culinary creativity meets approachable elegance.”
Katerina may be an elevated echo of Reggiano’s. Or possibly, Jones hopes, something even better.
