Houston-based chef Levi Goode considered a question: What could he do to bring the good people of San Antonio together to celebrate at Otto’s Ice House, his new concept at Pearl?
Goode’s mind went to a favorite season, the one that begins on Valentine’s Day and ends on Father’s Day, and there was the answer: He’d throw a crawfish boil to kickstart the Memorial Day Weekend.
So get ready for Otto’s Inaugural Crawfish Boil, a holiday event that starts Saturday at 1 p.m. with 400 pounds of hot, seasoned crawfish, cold Lone Star buckets and live music by country artist Colton James.
The party ends when the crawfish sells out.
“I enjoy the communal nature of a crawfish boil that brings people together over a cold drink and good times and an opportunity to connect,” said Goode, a three-time James Beard Award nominee. “I wanted to bring that to San Antonio and share it with the neighbors.”
To mark the approaching end of crawfish season, guests will receive a 2 1/2 -pound tray filled with boiled crawfish, corn cob and potatoes for $23. For an extra $4.75, a half-pound of sausage or a serving of boudin can be added. Beer will flow with drafts, bottles and buckets.
Otto’s full menu will also be available, which features the Hill Country Deluxe Smashburger, Goode’s Street Tacos, a homemade bratwurst and handcrafted cocktails, including one that gives a nod to the late Otto Koehler himself.
Otto’s opened on April 15 as a self-described “watering hole” on the San Antonio River “and a wink to the scandal surrounding the historic Pearl Brewery’s notorious leadership.” The notorious leader referenced is Koehler, a brewer with a love for three women named Emma.
Otto was married to Emma Koehler. He had an affair with Emma’s nurse, Emma Dumpke, and a second affair with the nurse’s roommate, Emma Burgermeister. He proposed to the roommate, who declined the proposal rather emphatically: with bullets to the heart, neck and brain.
In memory of the brewer’s demise in 1914, the ice house that bears his name offers a cocktail called “Otto’s Last Shot,” a mix of Divino Maguey mezcal, lemon, honey and cayenne.
In the scandalous aftermath, Burgermeister was acquitted of all charges and married a juror from her trial. The widow, meanwhile, took over the San Antonio Brewing Association (later known as Pearl Brewery), modernized the plant and led it to become the largest brewery in Texas, producing 110,000 barrels per year. A Michelin-recognized hotel at Pearl bears her name.
More than a century after the fatal shooting, Otto’s website recounts an amusing version of the story and proclaims: “Welcome to Otto’s Ice House, WITH JUSTICE AND DRINKS FOR ALL!”
“We had such a good time playing off this story with the branding,” Goode said. “We burned through a whole lot of cocktail napkins. It’s almost like the song (by Jerry Reed), ‘She Got the Goldmine (I Got The Shaft).’”
Emma’s rise and Otto’s demise has inspired numerous articles and a novel, “The First Emma,” by former San Antonio resident Camille Di Maio. Goode embraces the notoriety, believing it good for business.
“It’s a fun story to tell,” Goode said. “Our team is well-schooled on Otto and his history. We’ve got photos and aspects of Pearl’s history and era through that time. It’s a fun way to introduce people to the history and the ice house.”
Otto’s marks the San Antonio restaurant debut for Goode, CEO of the Goode Company in Houston and son of the late, legendary pitmaster Jim Goode. The eatery features a bar, an outdoor patio and straightforward, South Texas menu with German and Czech influence.
“There’s even a coastal influence,” Goode said, pointing to the redfish on a half shell.
Ryan Howard expects a large turnout for the crawfish boil. As managing director of Potluck Hospitality, a company that invests in Otto’s and other restaurants, he offices out of Pearl near the icehouse on Newell Avenue.
“Otto’s is a great concept for date night,” Howard said. “It’s a great place to take kids because of the hot dogs and cheeseburgers on the menu. You can go and have a beer or a frozen margarita and just watch sports. There’s a great view of the river and Pullman Market. It’s the jewel on Newell.”
Goode isn’t sure how long the crawfish will last. But be advised:
Expect tall boys, tall tails and maybe a round of Otto’s Last Shot.
